It seems as though Rwanda gets ready for Christmas sooner than the states! (Though I am sure the Christmal Carol radio channel has been going strong since October.) I went to Nakumatt yesterday (the "Wal-mart" of Kigali) and there were trees (fake) everywhere, in addition to a large mechanical Santa Claus at the door. I assume since they don't have Thanksgiving to look forward to, it's full steam ahead to Christmas. I've never had a fake tree in my life and I am not about to start.

The past two weeks have been completely different than the first month here. I've been actually working, and teaching! The studio got set up beautifully (I can say that now in retrospect, during the process it was a horrendous headache) with the walls and floors freshly painted, the barre installed, and the curtains hung (after trying a million different ways to McGyver some curtain rods, one idea worked - too long to explain). I made it through explaining a ballet barre, getting the metal brackets designed and made, choosing a nice beige in a world of beige for curtain fabric, having my carpenter profess is undying love for me and graciously turning him down after he brought me lunch two days in a row, a curtain being stolen, a barre bracket falling out of the wall, and everyone who passes by the studio walking in and offering me their services.

We started classes on Monday, the 9th, and I've taught 15 classes since then. I already have 36 students, most of whom are Rwandan (about 22). My body is completely beat after Mondays, when I have four classes, and I am not just standing there and directing, but pretty much dancing with the girls the entire time cause they (generally) have no idea what they are doing.


I was joking with Jen and Dano the other day about how "I work in physical fitness." We had a good laugh. Anyway, there are four more weeks before the winter break, and it's been a good "soft opening" before the full spring term (January-June). I haven't really done any advertising yet, so I hope to get 80 students if I really put some work into it. Here is my Wednesday class of 5 to 7 year olds looking pretty cute. This photo did not come easily!

Getting around Kigali is both easy and difficult. It's a small, fairly well laid out city. Each neighborhood has a main roundabout, and those are well kept gardens and in some cases (like ours in Kimihurura) a substantial park that you can exercise in, run around, lay in - whatever. Most weddings take place in the roundabouts as well. If it's a Saturday or Sunday the one in Kacyiru is packed with people - wedding parties, and everyone the bride and groom know. Weddings are a big deal here, and quote elaborate.

There are several neighborhoods - Kimihurura - nicer, residential area (where we live), Kacyiru - kind of sprawls, eats all the other neighborhoods - not in one concentrated spot; if you don't know where you are I'd go with Kacyiru, Kiyovu - 'town,' and where the president lives (and where my studio is!), Nyarutarama - upper class, Remera - soccer stadium, busy, Kimironko - also very busy, with the big market (or maybe that's just the name of the market and not actually a neighborhood?), and Nyabugogo - bus stations, craziness.

There is always traffic because there are a lot of cars and not enough roads. This is another benefit of taking motos everywhere - they zip in, out, and around everything. I hardly ever sit in traffic. I can get nearly anywhere for 75 cents, only maybe if I am going from town to the market this would cost me more like $1.20. The upper class Rwandans mostly have big cars (Mercedes, BMWs, Lexi, Jeeps or Range Rovers), the middle class have older cars - usually RAV4s, Toyotas, Golfs - and those who cannot afford a car take motos everywhere. Then there is the rest of the population that walks. This is most of the population. I either walk or take motos - of it's raining, I am stuck waiting until it stops.

There are very few street names for the roads here, and even fewer street signs. Even if you do know the street name, people will probably not know where it is. (For instance, the main, MAIN drag that my studio is on is the Boulevard de l'UA (had to ask around quite a bit to find out) but whenever I say it no one has any idea where I am talking about.)

Once you get off the main roads, everything is dirt and in poor condition. The rain constantly eroding the dirt roads probably has something to do with it. For umuganda last week (the last Saturday of every month everyone is expected to devote the morning hours to cleaning the city) Dano and Carter tried to fill some of the potholes in our street. It was great ... for about an afternoon.

I am really going off topic quite a bit. Here is a street sign in Kimihurura. Please note the street name - Rue 1. Umudugudu means street and Amajyambere is the name of the village in Kimihurura.

I've seen about 4 of these since I have been here. It's very hard to get or give directions unless it's to a main, known location, or someplace with a business/landmark nearby, because most people know those. If you live at our house, which is next to nothing, it can be difficult.

A couple of observations:

No one eats on the street here, or while they are walking. I am constantly eating while doing both.

Coca-cola is god. It's cheaper than water, and served and expected everywhere. I don't drink soda at all. The man who built my studio furniture bought me one and sat with me until I finished it. It was hard.


If someone says they'll call you in thirty minutes, most likely they will call you tomorrow afternoon.

The electricity has been off for three days - Dano has called the company every three hours, and every time he calls "the man is on his way now!"

Moto driver dudes will sometimes stop to run their errands or say hi to a friend on the way to your destination.

The rain rules this country. I can't go anywhere right now (mostly cause I don't have a car) but because the dirt streets are now rivers of mud, the motos stop running, and I don't have rubber boots or an umbrella. This holds true for 90% of the population.

There is one (1) kind of cheese. You're screwed if you don't like it. Not only do I love cheese, but I do not like el queso de Rwanda.

It cost me $40 to get the studio painted, including supplies, but it costs me $14 for a pound of chicken, and $25 for a liter of ice cream (which I didn't buy). Cigarettes are 78 cents a pack.

The cheapest car I've seen is for $6,000. It is 1993 Toyota Carina (African Corolla).

Rwandese love talking about how beautiful their country is, and how boring it is.

Anyone under 20 loves Ne-Yo. Early Britney Spears is quite popular on the radios. Also, Maywood - a ridiculous Dutch band from the 70s and 80s I had to google. (Whenever I google here, it brings me to www.google.rw - cool.)

I sent postcards to some friends 4 weeks ago - still haven't arrived.

My mom sent me a package 4 weeks ago - still hasn't arrived.

My feet are permanently dirty here. Even though I wear shoes everywhere except the house, the dust and dirt permeates everything and has forever attached itself to the soles of my feet.

If I don't sleep with my mosquito net, I'll have at least three bites in the morning - cool to know it works.

It costs $94 to Fedex a letter to America. Not sure why I know this.

The Penguin Classics can be found at Nakumatt, the African Walmart.

We carved pumpkins today.


Rwandese laugh if you tell them you're trying to learn Kinyarwanda.

Samosas are the local snack - they can be bought anywhere for about 20 cents each. Savior, though greasy.

Rwanda and Uganda fight over where the source of the Nile actually is - Rwanda took a big step and the biggest bottled water company in the country is called 'Sourc du Nil.' I'm pretty sure it's in Uganda.

I haven't seen a single tattoo. Or nose ring. Everyone thinks I am Indian because of my dark hair and nose ring.

Once, I was standing around with my carpenter man in the furniture co-op, and there was a woman nearby eating lunch. He said to me "She says you are very beautiful. She wants to know if you are my girlfriend." The woman had never once opened her mouth.

I found this calendar in an office - please note, Obama's wife Mitchelle and their daughters Maria and Tasha.


Plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda - haven't seen one since I left America. Great idea for a clean environment, but it kills me to see all the paper bags - more than you could ever imagine. I guess I was always on the side of the trees.

Also haven't seen a television since I left.

GO YANKEES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It takes me 4.5 hours to download an episode of Grey's Anatomy, which I do weekly.

Ya'll changed your clocks this morning, but Rwanda skips out on that little gem of life.

The rain stopped, so I am done here. Now to find some electricity and a signal to get online.